
冲浪
夏威夷冲浪
冲浪历史
对冲浪(夏威夷语 "hee nalu")最早的书面记录是 James King 中尉在 1779 年库克船长去世数月后写下的。他描述了夏威夷原住民在夏威夷大岛的凯阿拉凯库亚海湾脚踏一块木板飞驰在海浪上。连他自己都能看出这项运动的乐趣,他写道:“……这项活动带来的速度感,似乎让他们感到非常愉悦。”
人们认为冲浪很久以前起源于古波利尼西亚,但是后来在夏威夷流行起来。冲浪曾经是夏威夷皇室 (alii) 才可以参与的运动,所以经常被称为“王者的运动”。卡美哈美哈一世国王的冲浪技巧也十分娴熟。随着 1819 年夏威夷神法 (kapu) 制度终结,普通人才可以自由参与这项运动。然而,十九世纪西方传教士到来之后,抑制了呼啦舞和冲浪等夏威夷习俗。
但在十九世纪晚期,夏威夷王国末期统治者之一,“快乐君王”卡拉卡瓦国王 (King Kalakaua) 让呼啦舞再度流行,代表着夏威夷人恢复了自己引以为傲的文化传统。之后,二十世纪早期,冲浪风靡威基基海滩。这一时期,杜克·卡哈那莫库 (Duke Kahanamoku) 就在威基基海滩教授游客如何冲浪、如何划独木舟。他从小就在南海岸冲浪。此后杜克成为一名游泳健将,多次赢得奥运会金牌。最终,他成为“现代冲浪运动之父”。现在,威基基竖立着一座杜克铜像,张开双臂欢迎八方游客。许多冲浪新手依然在这里学习追逐海浪。
观看冲浪的时间和地点
二十世纪五十年代,冲浪者们开始学习驾驭欧胡岛西海岸马卡哈 (Makaha) 和北海岸威美亚海湾强大的冬季巨浪。夏威夷的大浪季节通常是从十一月到来年二月,在夏威夷的北海岸。您可以在每座岛上观看冲浪,而全球部分顶级冲浪比赛每年 11 月、12 月在欧胡岛北海岸举行,包括最重要的冲浪三冠王大赛 (Vans Triple Crown of Surfing)。如果您计划欣赏专业冲浪选手的比赛,请尽早前往北海岸,这是因为交通可能会非常拥挤。
冬季时,大浪会在北海岸产生,而夏季则在南海岸。欧胡岛北海岸是著名冲浪胜地,威美亚海湾、日落海滩 (Sunset Beach) 和万岁波浪区 (Banzai Pipeline) 都很适合观看。
参加冲浪课程
几乎每座岛屿都提供冲浪课程,您可以了解这项运动的基础知识。课程时长一到两小时,由经验丰富的冲浪者在海浪冲击力度较弱的区域授课。初学者使用长板学习冲浪会更容易上手,在老师的指导下您可以更快入门。威基基海滩依然是夏威夷最适合初学者冲浪的地点之一。
桨板运动
桨板运动是冲浪运动的一种,在夏威夷岛越来越流行。在浆板运动 (SUP) 中,冲浪者站在更宽、更长的冲浪板上,使用一支桨来移动。SUP 可以很好地锻炼核心肌群,通常用于健身而不是驾驭海浪。为了您自己的安全以及海滩上其他人的安全,强烈建议您学习冲浪课程。
注意:玩冲浪或浆板时,请注意所有的警告标志。向您的教练了解环境变化、劲流和礁石。根据自己的明智判断确定您的水平是否适合在某个海滩冲浪。
Experience Surfing in Hawaiʻi
“Tip 1: Take “CAUTION” signage seriously - even if others are surfing there. If a beach is posted, then it’s because it’s DANGEROUS!”
“Tip 2: Watch the waves break first for at least 10 minutes, before getting into the water, so you can time the waves and understand how they are breaking.”
“Tip 3: Make sure you’ve chosen the right kind of board for your level of expertise. Trying to surf with a board that is too advanced leads to fatigue, frustration and increases the chance for a serious wipeout.”
“Tip 4: Keep your knees bent while surfing for more control of the board and a longer, safer ride.”
“Tip 5: Don’t completely close your fingers when paddling. Keep them slightly open to be more efficient. Sometimes the smallest of details can save energy, allowing you to surf longer and be less tired.”
“Tip 6: Rash guards help prevent your skin from getting rubbed raw and reduce the amount of sunscreen necessary to prevent sunburn.”
“Tip 7: Focus your attention to where you want to be and you will get there sooner. Don’t look around… wherever your head is pointed is where you’re going to end up on a surfboard.”
“Tip 8: Use only Reef Safe Sunscreen. Research has shown that even small amounts of chemicals found in commonly used sunscreens can bleach coral (and they’re probably not too good for humans either).”
“Tip 9: If other surfers are around and you’re a beginner, ask the locals if they mind if you surf with them. It’s only “pono” (right) and will garner their respect.”
“Tip 10: Take time to analyze your mistakes. For example, if your center of gravity was off, think about bending the knees more or moving your feet to feel more centered on the board as necessary. It makes for more fun, safer ride.”

Learn About Ocean Safety in Hawaiʻi
夏威夷冲浪
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